I feel the need, the need for speed

tom cruise

Top Gun’s Maverick didn’t always get it right.  For example, Berlin’s ‘Take my breath away’ is not a good song for sexytime, Foreigner’s ‘I wanna know what love is’ would have been a better choice during that era.  Also high waisted jeans are never suitable attire for beach volleyball in the San Diego heat.  But Maverick was right about the need for speed, especially in surfing….

Speed is important because it allows us to stay in the best part of the wave, and do maneuvers without the deadly art of rail bogging.  There are lots of different ways to create speed on a surfboard, but for today’s blog post I want to keep it really simple and just focus on just one way.  It’s called taking the Lamborghini lane … aka staying high on the wave face.

Take a look at this picture of a wave at Pavones in Costa Rica….


If you surf mainly in the top part of the wave you will be like a Lamborghini because you will be really fast and powerful, and lots of people will give you admiring glances.  If you go along the mid point of the wave you’re a Nissan Micra.  You are reliable and you will reach your destination, but there’s nothing flash or creative about you.  Finally, if you’re a bottom of the wave dweller then you’re a Ford Pinto.  You’re very likely to breakdown, you’re not going anywhere, you’re getting in people’s way, and you’re a bit lame.

I think we’re all agreed that it’s much more fun to drive a Lamborghini than a Nissan Micra or a Ford Pinto.  So when you pop up don’t head straight for the trough, instead aim for near the lip.  I am simplifying this issue because of course it’s possible to out run the wave in the lamborghini lane and you will have to learn to cutback, but for many surfers it’s a good place to start and it will get you familiar with that part of the wave.

For my next blog post I promise to try to include other tenuous links with my favourite Tom Cruise quotes including “you complete me” and “I want the truth”.

Keep it high and tight in the pocket!

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